Dawn Berkoski

Passing through the iron gates of the Șerban Vodă Cemetery, also known as Bellu Cemetery, I was instantly entranced by the domed Chapel or Capela. I wanted to explore there first, and we did, after waiting for a funeral procession to pass.

Whispers of burying people alive, claw marks found on coffin lids, and ringing bells tied to fingers and toes, may have led to the tradition of having longer wakes in Romania. Better to wait three days, I was told, just in case.

In some churches, caskets lay on cloth-covered tables, allowing visitors to pray over the recently departed. This chapel was freshly empty of bodies, but full of elaborate art lining the ceiling and walls. The chandelier was also uniquely adorned in miniatures.

Back outside, I wandered through the tombstones and mausoleums, amazed by the detail of the famous sculptures by Raffaello Romanelli and other artists. The ironwork throughout the grounds was masterful. I felt like I was walking through an art gallery of death and beauty. And then I descended into a crypt.

There are notable graves in Bellu, famous writers, poets, and lovers both scorned and eternally admired. I took note of them all, along with the wandering cats who have their own stories to tell.

Dawn B~